In recent years, K-beauty (Korean beauty) has gained great popularity, transforming the way many people approach skincare. Known for its emphasis on healthy, glowing skin and its multi-step routines, Korean skincare is all about balance, nourishment, and continous self-care.
If you’re a non-Korean person interested in the K-beauty philosophy, the famous (or infamous?) “multi-step skincare routine” might seem like a daunting task. In fact it is easier to adopt than you might think. When I started hearing about the term, I denied that “Hey, it’s not that many steps!” But then I realized quickly, that is the steps that I do take as a Korean.
In this guide, I’ll break down the steps and explain the purpose of each product, to see why each step is so important. Whether you’re a K-beauty newbie or a seasoned skincare enthusiast, hopefully this posting will help you understand and incorporate the routine into your life.
Understanding the Philosophy Behind the Korean Skincare Routine
At the heart of K-beauty lies the philosophy of “chok chok (촉촉)”—a Korean term that refers to skin that is deeply moisturized, plump, and dewy. The focus is on hydration, nourishment, and prevention. So our goal is not quick fixes or covering up imperfections with heavy makeup!
Another key aspect of Korean skincare is the focus on preventing skin issues, rather than addressing problems once they arise. The multi-step routine allows for a holistic approach to skincare that aims to support the skin’s overall health. Of course, along the way, we do address specific problems like acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, or dryness as they arise — obviously as they are unavoidable.
The Core Steps of a Korean Skincare Routine
Though the Korean skincare routine can involve 10 or more steps, it doesn’t mean that every step is necessary for everyone. The beauty of the K-beauty system is that it’s customizable, allowing you to adapt it to your own needs. Here’s a breakdown of the most common steps, followed by their benefits.
1. Oil-Based Cleanser (1st step of Double Cleansing)
The first step in any Korean skincare routine is cleansing—and not just with any cleanser, but an oil-based cleanser. Oil cleansers are designed to break down makeup, sunscreen, and excess oils from the skin. They work by using “like dissolves like” chemistry to remove oil-based impurities effectively.
Purpose: Removes makeup, sunscreen, and other oil-based impurities.
How to Use: Apply the oil cleanser to dry skin, gently massaging it in circular motions. Add a little water to emulsify and rinse off with lukewarm water.
For those without makeup or sunscreen, this step can be skipped, but it is still a great way to deeply cleanse the skin without stripping it of moisture.
2. Water-Based Cleanser (2nd step of Double Cleansing)
After using an oil cleanser, the next step is a water-based cleanser. This is the second half of the Korean double cleansing method. Water-based cleansers are usually gel or foam formulations that target water-based impurities like sweat and dirt.
Purpose: Removes water-based impurities, ensuring the skin is clean and ready to absorb the following products.
How to Use: Apply a small amount of water-based cleanser to damp skin, massage gently, and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
3. Exfoliation (1-2 Times a Week)
Exfoliating your skin removes dead skin cells and promotes skin renewal, revealing smoother, brighter skin. However, over-exfoliation can damage the skin’s barrier, so it’s recommended to exfoliate only 1-2 times per week. I personally try to stay away from this step, as I get older, as I feel my skin gets too dry.
Purpose: Removes dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and helps with skin texture and tone.
How to Use: You can use a physical exfoliant (scrubs) or a chemical exfoliant (AHAs like glycolic acid or BHAs like salicylic acid). If you use a scrub, apply it to damp skin in gentle, circular motions. For chemical exfoliants, follow the product’s instructions, as they can vary in concentration.
4. Toner
Toner is often misunderstood as an optional step, but in Korean skincare, it plays a critical role. Toners help restore the skin’s pH balance after cleansing, and depending on the formulation, they can hydrate, soothe, or even exfoliate the skin.
Purpose: Restores pH balance, provides hydration, and preps the skin for better absorption of subsequent products.
How to Use: Pour a small amount of toner onto a cotton pad or your palms and gently pat it into your skin. Some people like to layer their toner several times for added hydration.
If you want to have some recommendations for starter, check “Must-Try Korean Toners; and What Does Real Korean Use?”
5. Essence
Essences are often described as the heart of Korean skincare, as they are packed with active ingredients like hydrating agents, antioxidants, and skin-rejuvenating compounds. They are lightweight yet potent, offering deep hydration and boosting skin repair.
Purpose: Hydrates, boosts skin cell regeneration, and addresses various skin concerns like pigmentation and fine lines.
How to Use: After toning, apply a small amount of essence to the face using your hands or a cotton pad. Pat it in gently until absorbed.
6. Serum / Ampoule
Serums and ampoules are concentrated treatments that target specific skin concerns like acne, wrinkles, dark spots, or redness. Ampoules are typically more potent than serums, with higher concentrations of active ingredients.
Purpose: Treats specific skin concerns like fine lines, pigmentation, acne, or dehydration.
How to Use: Apply a few drops of serum to your face and massage it in. Serums are typically lightweight, and a little goes a long way.
7. Sheet Mask (Optional, 1-2 Times a Week)
Sheet masks are one of the most iconic steps of Korean skincare. They are infused with serums or essences and are designed to be placed on the face for 15-20 minutes, allowing the skin to soak up all the beneficial ingredients.
Purpose: Provides a boost of hydration, brightens the complexion, and targets specific skin concerns (such as anti-aging or soothing).
How to Use: After applying toner or essence, apply the sheet mask to your face. Leave it on for 15-20 minutes, then remove it and gently pat any remaining essence into your skin.
If you want to have some recommendations for starter, check “Top 5 Korean Hydrating Mask Sheets That Will Make Your Skin Glow.”
8. Eye Cream
The delicate skin around your eyes is thinner and more sensitive than the rest of your face, so it’s essential to use a product that caters to its needs. Korean eye creams are often formulated to hydrate, reduce puffiness, and address dark circles or fine lines.
Purpose: Targets puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines around the eyes.
How to Use: Gently tap a small amount of eye cream around your eye area using your ring finger, which exerts the least amount of pressure.
9. Moisturizer
Moisturizing is key to keeping your skin hydrated and healthy. Depending on your skin type, the texture of your moisturizer can vary—from a light gel for oily skin to a rich cream for dry skin.
Purpose: Locks in hydration and helps maintain the skin’s moisture balance.
How to Use: Apply a generous amount of moisturizer to your face and neck in upward motions. It helps to seal in all the active ingredients you’ve applied earlier.
10. Sunscreen (AM Routine)
The final step in your morning routine should always be sunscreen. Protecting your skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays is crucial to prevent premature aging, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer. In Korean skincare, sunscreen is not optional—it’s a must.
Purpose: Protects the skin from harmful UV rays, preventing sun damage, dark spots, and aging.
How to Use: Apply a generous amount of broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) to your face and neck. Reapply throughout the day, especially if you’re outside for long periods.
Tips for Building Your Own Routine
If you’re new to the world of K-beauty and the multi-step skincare routine, it can be tempting to try everything at once. However, it’s essential to build your routine gradually and pay attention to your skin’s unique needs.
Start Simple: Begin with the basics—cleanser, toner, essence, serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen. You can always add additional products later on.
Identify Your Skin Type: Is your skin oily, dry, combination, sensitive, or acne-prone? Knowing your skin type will help you choose products that will benefit you most.
Introduce Products Slowly: Avoid overwhelming your skin by introducing new products one at a time. This will also allow you to identify any potential reactions.
Consistency is Key: The K-beauty routine emphasizes long-term, consistent care. Stick with your routine and give products time to work before making adjustments.
Conclusion: Is the Multi-Step Routine Worth It?
The Korean skincare routine offers a more personalized and thoughtful approach to skincare compared to many Western routines. It focuses not only on addressing immediate skin concerns but also on nourishing and maintaining healthy skin in the long term. While it may seem like a lot of steps, remember that each product serves a purpose, and over time, you will begin to notice the cumulative benefits of the routine.
The K-beauty world is vast, but it’s also incredibly flexible. You can customize your skincare regimen